Buying a ski helmet and ski goggles: safety, fit and lens colours

user-circle Skizaak Redactie clock 12 min read refresh Bijgewerkt op 15-05-2026

A safe set begins with a ski helmet that meets the European standard CE EN 1077, sits snugly on your head without pressure points and ideally has MIPS against rotational forces. You choose ski goggles based on the VLT value: dark lenses in sun, light lenses in cloud and snowfall. Helmet and goggles must align seamlessly.

Ski helmet: why safety standards matter

A ski helmet is not a fashion accessory but protection in falls and collisions on the piste. In the Netherlands and most European ski areas a helmet is often mandatory for children and strongly recommended for adults. When buying a ski helmet you look not only at fit and appearance, but above all at the underlying safety technology.

The CE EN 1077 standard: class A and class B

The European standard EN 1077:2007 applies to all helmets intended as head protection for skiing and snowboarding. Helmets are tested for shock absorption and resistance to penetration. The standard has two protection classes:

  • Class A — helmets that protect the top and back of the head, the side and the ears (often with removable, soft ear pads). Suitable for both recreational use and competition.
  • Class B — helmets that protect the top and back of the head but leave the ears free. Protects a smaller part of the head and is intended for recreational use. Plus point: better ventilation and ambient sound.

For most recreational skiers both class A and B suffice. If you want maximum coverage, or you ski hard and fanatically, then class A is the safer choice. Snowboarders often deliberately choose class B with removable ear pads because of the extra ventilation and ambient sound, while racers and children are usually better off with the broader coverage of class A. When buying, always look for the CE mark and the standard designation on the inside of the helmet or on the label; if it's missing, don't buy the helmet.

Hardshell, in-mould or hybrid construction

Besides the standard, the construction method determines how the helmet absorbs energy and how much it weighs. A hardshell helmet has a thick, tough outer shell that sits loosely over a foam core; it's robust and resistant to rough handling, but heavier. An in-mould helmet fuses a thin polycarbonate outer layer directly with the EPS foam, which is light and well-ventilated but more prone to dents during daily transport. Hybrid helmets combine a hardshell crown with in-mould sides and often offer the best balance between weight, ventilation and durability. For recreational use all three suffice; choose mainly on fit, weight and comfort.

MIPS: protection against rotational forces

MIPS stands for Multi-directional Impact Protection System. In an angled fall not only a straight impact but also a rotational force acts on the brain, and it's precisely that rotation that causes much brain injury. MIPS adds a low-friction layer inside the helmet that gives 10 to 15 mm in an angled impact. As a result, less rotational energy is transferred to the head. A helmet with MIPS is usually a bit more expensive, but delivers a measurable safety advantage in angled falls. Besides MIPS there are comparable systems from other manufacturers (such as WaveCel or a SPIN-comparable technology); they have the same goal: to dampen the rotational forces. If you're torn between two models, the version with rotational protection is almost always the wiser choice.

Determining the right ski helmet size

A helmet only protects well if it fits well. A too loose helmet shifts in a fall; a too tight one causes headaches and pressure points. Measure your head circumference with a tape measure at the widest point, about 2 cm above the eyebrows and around the back of the head. The tape should fit snugly without cutting in.

Head circumference size chart

Head circumference (cm)Helmet sizeTarget group
46–51XSYoung children
51–54SChildren / small adults
54–57S/MTeenagers / adults
57–59MAdults
59–62LAdults
62–65XLAdults with a large head

Note: there is no fully uniform sizing standard between brands — always check the size chart of the specific manufacturer. If you're between two sizes, choose the smallest size that still fits comfortably, provided the helmet has an adjustment system (turn dial) to fine-tune the fit.

How to check the fit

The helmet fits well if it stays in place when you shake your head or bend forward without the chin strap being fastened. There should be no painful pressure points, and your forehead should be covered. The helmet should not slip over your eyes and not tilt backwards. View the full range and the matching safety equipment in our category ski equipment.

Buying ski goggles: lens colour and VLT per weather type

Ski goggles protect your eyes against wind, cold, snow and above all UV radiation, which reflects extra brightly on snowy slopes. The most important choice is the lens colour, expressed in VLT (Visible Light Transmission): the percentage of visible light the lens lets through. The lower the VLT, the darker the lens and the more sun it can handle. Check out our ski goggles for the various lens options.

VLT lens categories and weather conditions

CategoryVLT (%)Lens colour (example)Suitable weather
S080–100%Clear / transparentNight, heavy snowfall, skiing in the dark
S143–80%Yellow, orange, pinkCloudy, fog, poor visibility and snowfall
S218–43%Pink-revo, bronze, amberVariable: cloudy to slightly sunny
S38–18%Mirror, blue-revo, greenSunny days with good visibility
S43–8%Dark mirror lensVery bright sunlight, high mountains, glacier

For most winter sports enthusiasts in variable Alpine weather conditions, a lens from category S2 or S3 is the safest all-rounder. Light tints (yellow/orange) increase contrast in fog and snow, so you spot bumps and ice patches sooner. If you often ski in different conditions, choose ski goggles with interchangeable lenses or a photochromic lens that automatically adapts to the light level.

Polarisation and lens shape

A polarised lens reduces the glare of light reflecting on snow and ice and gives calmer vision in bright weather. The drawback: polarised lenses sometimes make it harder to see the difference between blue ice and soft snow, which is precisely relevant information on the piste. For the average winter sports enthusiast, polarisation is a pleasant but not necessary extra. In addition there are cylindrical lenses (flat-curved, more affordable) and spherical lenses (curved in two directions, less distortion and a wider field of view). Spherical lenses cost more but give the optically calmest image.

Also pay attention to anti-fog and frame fit

A double lens with anti-fog coating and good ventilation prevents fogging, which on a cold piste is a safety matter: fogged goggles deprive you of vision. Choose a frame that fits comfortably around your face shape without pressure points on the nose or cheekbones, with a supple foam edge (preferably in two or three layers) that prevents air leaks. An adjustable, silicone-coated headband keeps the goggles stable on your helmet, even at high speed. Also check that the lens offers at least UV400 protection; that blocks virtually all harmful UVA and UVB radiation.

OTG: ski goggles for glasses wearers

If you wear prescription glasses, you don't have to switch to contact lenses. An OTG ski goggle (Over The Glasses) has a roomier frame and cut-outs in the foam edge so the temples of your glasses fit through it comfortably. When buying, pay attention to:

  • Sufficient internal depth so your spectacle lenses don't touch the ski goggle lens;
  • Cut-outs for the glasses temples at the level of your temples;
  • Good ventilation — OTG goggles fog up faster because there are two lens layers;
  • A wide field of view so your frame doesn't block your peripheral vision too much.

An alternative is a ski goggle with a prescription lens (clip-in insert), but for most glasses wearers a good OTG goggle is the simplest and most affordable solution.

Helmet and ski goggles: the combination must work

Helmet and goggles are ideally bought together, or you at least try them together. It's about the alignment on top of your forehead. A gap between the top of the ski goggles and the rim of the helmet — in English the "Jerry gap" or "gaper gap" — lets in cold air and snow and gives a frozen forehead. Check:

  • That the top edge of the goggles fits snugly against the helmet rim without a visible gap;
  • That the goggle clip or a cut-out at the back of the helmet keeps the strap in place;
  • That the goggles are not pushed up by the helmet, causing them to come off your face;
  • That the ventilation openings of goggles and helmet don't block each other.

A small bit of forehead covered by foam or helmet lining is acceptable; a visible strip of skin is not.

Ski helmet and ski goggles for children

For children, safety weighs extra heavily — a helmet is mandatory for minors in many ski areas. Children's helmets are offered in sizes between about 46 and 60 cm head circumference. Measure your child's head just like for adults, 2 cm above the eyebrows. Important points of attention:

  • Don't buy too roomy "to grow into". A too large helmet protects poorly. Choose the smallest size that fits comfortably and use the adjustment system.
  • Test the fit actively: the helmet should not shift when your child moves their head and should not give pressure points.
  • Replace after a hard fall. The EPS foam absorbs once and is less effective afterwards, even without visible damage.
  • Choose a children's ski goggle that aligns with the helmet and has a UV-blocking lens — children's eyes are extra sensitive to reflecting UV on snow.

Combine the helmet with the right size skis and poles for a safe set; our range of children's skis helps you with that. A well-fitting children's ski helmet is also standard part of the equipment.

Comfort: ventilation, weight and fit systems

Safety is leading, but comfort determines whether you keep the helmet on all day — and a helmet only protects if you actually wear it. So pay attention to a few practical points:

  • Ventilation: adjustable air vents carry off heat and moisture during intensive skiing and help against fogged goggles. On cold days you close them, in spring snow you open them.
  • Adjustment system: a turn dial at the back (BOA-like system) fine-tunes the fit with gloves on and compensates for a thin or thick beanie underneath.
  • Weight: a light helmet (around 400–500 grams) tires your neck less on long ski days, but should never compromise the safety standard.
  • Lining and ear pads: removable, washable lining keeps the helmet hygienic; removable ear pads make the helmet usable in spring.
  • Integrated visor: some helmets have a built-in visor instead of separate goggles — handy for glasses wearers, although separate ski goggles are often more versatile in terms of lens choice.

Preferably try a helmet in the shop or order several sizes to try at home. Two helmets of the same size can sit completely differently on your head due to a different inner shape (round versus oval).

Maintenance and replacement

A ski helmet doesn't last forever. Replace it after a hard impact, and with normal use every five to eight years because foam and materials age. Store helmet and goggles dry and not in full sun or a scorching hot car. Clean the lens of your ski goggles only with the supplied microfibre cloth and never rub the inside of the lens — that's where the vulnerable anti-fog coating is. Let wet goggles air-dry with the lens facing up and never put them back wet in a tight bag; moisture damages the anti-fog layer and the foam edge over time. With good maintenance, quality lenses last several seasons.

Frequently asked questions

In most European ski areas a helmet is mandatory for children and youths. For adults it's usually not legally required but it's strongly recommended and many ski schools and pistes do require it.
CE EN 1077 is the European safety standard for ski and snowboard helmets. The helmet is tested for shock absorption and penetration resistance. Class A also protects the ears and side, class B leaves the ears free for more ventilation.
MIPS is not mandatory but offers extra protection against rotational forces in angled falls, which cause much brain injury. It's recommended if you want maximum safety and it fits within your budget.
In bright sunlight choose a dark lens with low VLT (category S3 or S4). In cloud, fog or snowfall choose a light lens with high VLT (category S1, such as yellow or orange). For variable weather category S2 or S3 is the best all-rounder.
Yes, with an OTG ski goggle (Over The Glasses). It has a roomier frame and cut-outs for the glasses temples. Pay attention to sufficient internal depth and good ventilation, because OTG goggles fog up faster due to the two lens layers.
Measure your head circumference with a tape measure at the widest point, about two centimetres above the eyebrows and around the back of the head. The tape fits snugly without cutting in. Compare the result with the manufacturer's size chart.
Always replace your ski helmet after a hard impact, even without visible damage, because the foam absorbs only once. With normal use, replacement every five to eight years is wise because materials age.

Conclusion

A good ski helmet meets CE EN 1077, fits snugly without pressure points and preferably has MIPS. You choose your ski goggles on VLT lens colour matching the expected weather, with an S2/S3 lens or interchangeable lenses as a safe all-round choice. Glasses wearers are best off with an OTG model, and for children the rule is: fit over "growing into". Always check that helmet and goggles align without a gap.

Ready to complete your equipment? Browse our range of ski helmets and matching ski goggles and hit the piste well protected. Torn about the size or combination? Our team is happy to help you with personal advice.

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Het Skizaak-team bestaat uit ervaren wintersporters en ski-specialisten die je helpen de juiste keuze te maken.

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